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Wave Breaking

Evaluates wave breaking conditions using the Weggel (1972) breaker depth index gamma_b to compute depth-limited breaking wave height H_b = gamma_b * d, then classifies breaker type (spilling, plunging, or surging) via the Iribarren surf similarity parameter. Used in coastal structure design and nearshore hazard assessment per the USACE Coastal Engineering Manual.

inputs

4 fields

context

4 archetypes

engine

both

outputs

4 scored fields

contract fields

Parameter Map

4 inputs to 4 scored outputs

  • wave_height_m

    float

    Incident (deep-water) wave height H_0

    0.3 to 8m

  • wave_period_s

    floatfrom archetypehidden in hard

    Wave period T

    3 to 18s

  • water_depth_m

    float

    Water depth at location of interest d

    0.3 to 15m

  • bottom_slope

    floathidden in hard

    Bottom slope m (rise/run ratio, dimensionless)

    0.005 to 0.2-
breaking_wave_height_mtol 0.03

Depth-limited breaking wave height H_b (m)

breaking_depth_mtol 0.03

Breaking depth d_b (m)

breaker_typetol 0.01

Breaker type: 1.0 = spilling, 2.0 = plunging, 3.0 = surging

iribarren_numbertol 0.05

Iribarren number (surf similarity parameter) xi

visibility contract

Difficulty Ladder

all_giveneasy

Moderate wave and slope — all parameters given, straightforward calculation

all fields visible
all_givenmedium

Larger waves or steeper slopes — all parameters given, more extreme conditions

all fields visible
partialhard

Wave period and bottom slope hidden — agent must infer from site description

wave_period_sbottom_slope

scenario bands

Archetype Atlas

gentle_sandy_beach

3 contexts

Gentle sandy beach with long flat approach

wave_height_m0.5 to 2.5
wave_period_s8 to 14
water_depth_m0.5 to 4
bottom_slope0.01 to 0.02

gold-coast-open-beach / byron-bay-sandy-shore / glenelg-beach-sa

moderate_beach

3 contexts

Moderate-slope beach with mixed sand and gravel

wave_height_m0.5 to 3.5
wave_period_s6 to 12
water_depth_m0.5 to 5
bottom_slope0.03 to 0.05

manly-beach-nsw / cottesloe-beach-wa / torquay-surf-coast

steep_reef

3 contexts

Steep reef or rocky platform with abrupt depth transition

wave_height_m1 to 5
wave_period_s6 to 14
water_depth_m1 to 8
bottom_slope0.08 to 0.15

ningaloo-reef-wa / great-barrier-reef-outer / norfolk-island-reef

harbour_breakwater

3 contexts

Harbour breakwater toe with constructed slope

wave_height_m1 to 6
wave_period_s5 to 12
water_depth_m2 to 10
bottom_slope0.05 to 0.1

fremantle-port-breakwater / townsville-harbour-arm / darwin-east-arm-wharf

rendered task

Generation Preview

gold-coast-open-beach-gentle-sandy-beach-preview

difficulty
hard
visibility
partial
archetype
gentle_sandy_beach
site context
gold-coast-open-beach
instruction excerptwave-breaking_calc.py

visible fields

  • wave_height_m0.5 to 2.5 m
  • water_depth_m0.5 to 4 m

withheld schema

bottom_slopewave_period_sbreaking_wave_height_mbreaking_depth_mbreaker_typeiribarren_number
Gentle sandy beach with long flat approach. gold-coast-open-beach. Required outputs: breaking_wave_height_m, breaking_depth_m, breaker_type, iribarren_number