Breaking wave height
breaking_wave_height_m
Depth-limited breaking wave height H_b (m)
Scores if within ±3% of the reference value.
Evaluates wave breaking conditions using the Weggel (1972) breaker depth index gamma_b to compute depth-limited breaking wave height H_b = gamma_b * d, then classifies breaker type (spilling, plunging, or surging) via the Iribarren surf similarity parameter. Used in coastal structure design and nearshore hazard assessment per the USACE Coastal Engineering Manual.
both: The model must reason numerically unaided.
One template produces many comparable benchmark tasks while keeping the scoring contract fixed.
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The reusable contract shown on this page.
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An archetype and site context are sampled.
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Inputs may be hidden at harder tiers.
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The model responds with the declared outputs.
Inputs the model receives, and the outputs it is scored on.
4 inputs
Included directly in every task prompt.
Wave height
wave_height_m
Incident (deep-water) wave height H_0
Water depth
water_depth_m
Water depth at location of interest d
Sampled from the scenario and inferable from its description.
Wave period
wave_period_s
Wave period T
Derived from the archetype scenario. Hidden at hard difficulty.
Visible in easier tasks and withheld in one or more harder tiers.
Bottom slope
bottom_slope
Bottom slope m (rise/run ratio, dimensionless)
Hidden at hard difficulty.
4 outputs
breaking_wave_height_m
Depth-limited breaking wave height H_b (m)
Scores if within ±3% of the reference value.
breaking_depth_m
Breaking depth d_b (m)
Scores if within ±3% of the reference value.
breaker_type
Breaker type: 1.0 = spilling, 2.0 = plunging, 3.0 = surging
Scores if within ±1% of the reference value.
iribarren_number
Iribarren number (surf similarity parameter) xi
Scores if within ±5% of the reference value.
Each template is sampled at three tiers. Harder tiers may hide inputs, forcing the model to infer them from the scenario description.
All inputs given
Moderate wave and slope — all parameters given, straightforward calculation
All inputs given
Larger waves or steeper slopes — all parameters given, more extreme conditions
Some inputs hidden
Wave period and bottom slope hidden — agent must infer from site description
Hidden inputs
Prompt replacement text
The site is {{ archetype.description }} ({{ archetype.site_context }})
The exact instruction and parameter contract used to generate this task, pinned to the published library source.
/workspace
Teal lines show Jinja input conditions, not task visibility policy. A line renders only when that input or tool is visible.
1You are a senior coastal engineer specializing in wave mechanics and shoreline processes.2 3## Problem4 5Determine the wave breaking parameters at a coastal site given the incident wave conditions and seabed geometry. Calculate the depth-limited breaking wave height, breaking depth, breaker type, and Iribarren number.6 7## Given8 9| Parameter | Value | Unit |10|-----------|-------|------|11| Incident wave height (H₀) | {{ wave_height_m }} | m |12{% if wave_period_s is defined %}13| Wave period (T) | {{ wave_period_s }} | s |14{% endif %}15| Water depth (d) | {{ water_depth_m }} | m |16{% if bottom_slope is defined %}17| Bottom slope (m) | {{ bottom_slope }} | - |18{% endif %}19{% if archetype_description is defined %}20 21### Site Conditions22 23{{ archetype_description }}24{% endif %}25 26{% if tool_available %}27## Available Tool28 29A wave breaking calculation tool is available at `/workspace/{{ meta.name }}_calc.py`. Run it with:30 31```bash32python3 /workspace/{{ meta.name }}_calc.py --help33```34 35You may use this tool to verify your calculations or compute values directly.36{% endif %}37 38## Required39 40Calculate the following:41 421. Depth-limited breaking wave height H_b (m)432. Breaking depth d_b (m)443. Breaker type (spilling, plunging, or surging) — report as a numeric code: 1.0 = spilling, 2.0 = plunging, 3.0 = surging454. Iribarren number (surf similarity parameter) ξ46 47## Applicable Standards48 49- USACE Coastal Engineering Manual (CEM)50- Weggel (1972) breaker depth index relation51 52## Constraints53 54- No internet access is available. Work from engineering knowledge and the provided tool.55- Use the following procedure:56 1. **Breaker depth index** (Weggel 1972 simplified):57 - γ_b = 1.56 / (1 + exp(−19.5 × m))58 - where m is the bottom slope59 - On a flat bottom (m → 0), γ_b → 0.78 (McCowan's solitary wave limit)60 2. **Depth-limited breaking wave height**:61 - H_b = γ_b × d62 - where d is the water depth at the location of interest63 3. **Breaking depth**:64 - d_b = H_b / γ_b65 4. **Deep-water wavelength**:66 - L₀ = g × T² / (2π)67 - where g = 9.81 m/s²68 5. **Iribarren number** (surf similarity parameter):69 - ξ = m / √(H₀ / L₀)70 - where H₀ is the incident wave height and L₀ is the deep-water wavelength71 6. **Breaker type classification**:72 - ξ < 0.5 → spilling (code 1.0)73 - 0.5 ≤ ξ < 3.3 → plunging (code 2.0)74 - ξ ≥ 3.3 → surging (code 3.0)75 76## Output Format77 78Show your step-by-step working in Markdown. At the end of your solution, include a JSON block with your final answers in exactly this format:79 80```json81{82 "breaking_wave_height_m": <numeric_value>,83 "breaking_depth_m": <numeric_value>,84 "breaker_type": <numeric_value>,85 "iribarren_number": <numeric_value>86}87```88 89Write your complete solution to `/workspace/output.md`.90 Each generated task is drawn from one of these realistic scenario bands.
Site contexts ground each scenario in a real locale the model can use to infer hidden values.
gentle_sandy_beach
Gentle sandy beach with long flat approach
moderate_beach
Moderate-slope beach with mixed sand and gravel
steep_reef
Steep reef or rocky platform with abrupt depth transition
harbour_breakwater
Harbour breakwater toe with constructed slope
gold-coast-open-beach-gentle-sandy-beach-preview — hard difficulty, some inputs hidden.
Gentle sandy beach with long flat approach. gold-coast-open-beach. Required outputs: breaking_wave_height_m, breaking_depth_m, breaker_type, iribarren_number
Scenario context and visible inputs.
Executable tool: wave-breaking_calc.py
Inputs withheld at this difficulty.
Wave period s
wave_period_s
Bottom slope
bottom_slope
Stand-in text in the prompt
The site is {{ archetype.description }} ({{ archetype.site_context }})
The scored JSON answer schema.
{
"breaking_wave_height_m": <number>,
"breaking_depth_m": <number>,
"breaker_type": <number>,
"iribarren_number": <number>
}