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Wave Shoaling

Transforms deep-water wave height to nearshore conditions by computing shoaling coefficient K_s and refraction coefficient K_r, yielding H = H_0 * K_s * K_r. Uses the Fenton and McKee (1990) explicit dispersion relation approximation to avoid iterative wavelength solutions, and applies Snell's law for wave angle refraction per the USACE Coastal Engineering Manual.

inputs

4 fields

context

4 archetypes

engine

both

outputs

3 scored fields

contract fields

Parameter Map

4 inputs to 3 scored outputs

  • deep_water_wave_height_m

    float

    Deep-water significant wave height H_0

    0.3 to 8m

  • wave_period_s

    floatfrom archetypehidden in hard

    Wave period T

    3 to 18s

  • nearshore_depth_m

    float

    Water depth at the nearshore location d

    0.5 to 30m

  • deep_water_wave_angle_deg

    floatfrom archetypehidden in hard

    Deep-water wave crest angle to bottom contour theta_0

    0 to 80degrees
shoaling_coefficienttol 0.03

Shoaling coefficient K_s (dimensionless)

refraction_coefficienttol 0.03

Refraction coefficient K_r (dimensionless)

nearshore_wave_height_mtol 0.05

Nearshore wave height H (m)

visibility contract

Difficulty Ladder

all_giveneasy

Normal incidence with moderate depth — all parameters given, straightforward calculation

all fields visible
all_givenmedium

Oblique approach or reef shelf — all parameters given, refraction effects significant

all fields visible
partialhard

Wave period and approach angle hidden — agent must infer from site description

wave_period_sdeep_water_wave_angle_deg

scenario bands

Archetype Atlas

open_coast_normal

3 contexts

Open coast with waves arriving nearly perpendicular to shoreline

deep_water_wave_height_m1 to 4
wave_period_s8 to 14
nearshore_depth_m2 to 10
deep_water_wave_angle_deg0 to 10

gold-coast-open-beach / bondi-beach-nsw / cottesloe-beach-wa

oblique_approach

3 contexts

Coast with waves arriving at a significant oblique angle

deep_water_wave_height_m1 to 5
wave_period_s6 to 14
nearshore_depth_m2 to 15
deep_water_wave_angle_deg20 to 45

byron-bay-headland / noosa-heads-refraction / port-stephens-oblique

sheltered_bay

3 contexts

Semi-enclosed bay with reduced wave energy and moderate refraction

deep_water_wave_height_m0.3 to 2
wave_period_s4 to 10
nearshore_depth_m1 to 8
deep_water_wave_angle_deg10 to 35

jervis-bay-nsw / moreton-bay-qld / princess-royal-harbour-wa

reef_shelf

3 contexts

Shallow reef platform with rapid depth transition and strong refraction

deep_water_wave_height_m1 to 6
wave_period_s8 to 16
nearshore_depth_m0.5 to 5
deep_water_wave_angle_deg5 to 40

ningaloo-reef-wa / great-barrier-reef-outer / heron-island-reef

rendered task

Generation Preview

gold-coast-open-beach-open-coast-normal-preview

difficulty
hard
visibility
partial
archetype
open_coast_normal
site context
gold-coast-open-beach
instruction excerptwave-shoaling_calc.py

visible fields

  • deep_water_wave_height_m1 to 4 m
  • nearshore_depth_m2 to 10 m

withheld schema

deep_water_wave_angle_degwave_period_sshoaling_coefficientrefraction_coefficientnearshore_wave_height_m
Open coast with waves arriving nearly perpendicular to shoreline. gold-coast-open-beach. Required outputs: shoaling_coefficient, refraction_coefficient, nearshore_wave_height_m